Saturday, January 4, 2025

Winter Hike up Lehman Creek Trail, Great Basin National Park

I spent too much time sitting at my computer this week, so I was looking forward to a big hike on Saturday, and decided to go up the Lehman Creek Trail, a steep trail in Great Basin National Park with about 2500 feet elevation gain. The hike is reached by driving up the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to the gate (which is closed during the winter months) at Upper Lehman Campground, parking, hiking through the campground, and then starting at the trailhead. From there, it's 3.4 miles to the Wheeler Peak Campground. 

This is one of the more popular winter hikes, but it's not easy due to steepness and high elevation. The trail was obvious because so many people had been on it that there was a trough in the snow. There was also a lot of ice, and I really wished I had brought microspikes. I had snow shoes, but decided not to put them and balanced carefully with my hiking poles. As I got higher, there was a little fresh snow and that made the trail much better.

In a little over an hour I reached a big meadow with lovely views of Wheeler Peak and the clouds rolling over it.

At this point it was relatively warm and I just had on a long-sleeve baselayer and a softshell, plus just one hat and neck warmer.

The bridge beyond the meadow is always a fun landmark because you can see how deep the snow is along the edges of the spring. It looked to be less than a foot deep. 

I couldn't resist taking some "artsy" photos, like these curved aspen trunks. 

The trail was quite nice at this point, I could just hike in my winter hiking boots. There was some wind, but not too much, and I enjoyed watching the trees change from ponderosa pine, pinyon pine, Utah juniper, and mountain mahogany at the start to quaking aspen, limber pine, white fir, and Douglas fir up higher. 


While I was in a winter wonderland, I could look back towards Snake Valley and see the snow-free Burbank Hills and Confusion Range. 

Some of the trees are so dramatic!

I was also paying special attention to the birds. This mountain chickadee was quite close...

...and then it wasn't. I saw/heard about 5 mountain chickadees, 3 red-breasted nuthatches, 2 brown creepers, 3 Clark's nutcrackers, and a Steller's jay. I also saw fresh deer tracks at about 9,000 feet.

It was fun seeing bits of the mountain appear as the clouds whisked by. I couldn't stop too long, as it was getting colder. I added a fleece under my softshell and a thicker neck warmer, plus pulled up my hood.

And then I reached the campground! The last part of the trail was very wind-blown, and I decided this was a good place to put on my snowshoes. 

I went out across the meadow in the middle of the campground, and here's a view looking back. Even with snowshoes I was sinking into the snow a few inches. 

But overall, the snow isn't too high.

Camping would be on the chilly side.

Here's part of the campground road.

It was nice when the sun came out. Here's my rather disheveled self, now with a puffy on top of the other jackets. I thought briefly about going further, but I had things I wanted to do at home that afternoon and I hadn't brought that much food. This was far enough for today's adventure.

So it was back to the trail and time to head downhill.

It was faster going down. I kept the snowshoes on to practice more with them. 

Most of Lehman Creek was iced over, and I saw very little running water.

As I got lower, the snow turned to ice, and eventually so much of the trail was melted I took off my snowshoes. I was glad to have the poles, as I nearly fell a few times on the slick icy spots.

And then I was back to the trailhead. What a wonderful jaunt!
Here are my times, which will always vary given the trail and snow conditions, amount of time spent birding and taking photos, and the number of snack and drink breaks. Speaking of drinks, my drink bottle started forming ice in it on my backpack side pocket. I guess it was chilly. 

Heading up:
Parking lot - 0 minutes
Trailhead - 13 min
Osceola ditch - 39 min (1 km from TH)
Big meadow - 70 min
bridge - 86 min
Wheeler Peak CG - 134 min (2 hours, 14 min)

Heading down
Wheeler Peak CG - 0 minutes
Bridge - 23 minutes
Big meadow - 34 min
Osceola ditch - 64 min
Trailhead - 92 min
Parking lot - 105 minutes (1 hour 45 min)

Plus I spent about half an hour wandering around the campground. How many people did I see? At the parking area, three other vehicles total. On the trail: 0 people. I had it all to myself on a Saturday morning. 

Here's more on visiting Great Basin National Park in winter. I'm hoping to get in some other good adventures this winter. 

Wednesday, December 4, 2024

Return to Crystal Ball Cave

Our friends organized a trip to Crystal Ball Cave and we were happy to join them. This cave is so different and wonderful. We started by going down the Lombardy poplar-lined driveway, where we spotted some peacocks and deer. After meeting our guide Kirsten, we drove up the hill and started on the 15-minute hike to the cave entrance.


Kirsten told us about how her family had discovered the cave while looking for lost sheep. They don't remember what happened to the sheep, but they sure remembered the cave!

The entrance is through a small door.

And then you're in the giant geode! Crystal Ball has thick crystal coatings on most of the ceilings, walls, and floors, caused by supersaturated water. Check out the big crystal by Kirsten's feet!

I've passed this weird looking stalactite several times. Now I understand that it's condensation corrosion that has been weathering away the formation so that we can see the layers that were deposited earlier.

You bring your own lights to light up the cave. Kirsten had a super bright light that really lit up a lot. As you can see, we're walking on the natural cave floor.

I looked closely at this formation. It might resemble a stalagmite at first, but I've seen several of these in Lehman Caves that have a hole through the middle. Sure enough, this one did, too. A gypsum bed was probably at this height, and water drips made a hole into the highly dissolvable gypsum. Then the water splashed to make the popcorny look. So maybe coralloid-encrusted drip tube is a better term for this speleothem. What would you call it?

Gypsum, you say? Why yes, there's a bunch of it in the cave. I don't understand why. You can see drill holes through a bunch of it from dripping water. Why does it confound me? I will be the first to say I have limited geologic knowledge. But I know that gypsum is soluble by water. And in order to have the nailhead spar (crystal coating) in the cave, the cave had to be flooded with water. So that means the gypsum came later. What made it come?

Up on the ceilings are lots of trays, flat surfaces of popcorn. Here's one explanation of how they form (on a really cool website called The Virtual Cave): http://www.goodearthgraphics.com/virtcave/trays/trays.html

There are plenty of more "regular" speleothems, like this nice stalagmite.

And quite a few stalactites and a large stalagmite with draperies on it.

This old ladder heads up into one of the many cupolas in the cave. Cupolas are like upside down sinkholes--they are bigger on the bottom and then get smaller on the top. They form from warm, acidic water rising from below. Cupolas are one of the indications of hypogenic caves, and the more I look at caves in the West, the more I see signs of hypogenesis. Many caves back east, like Mammoth Cave, are epigenic caves, forming when streams sink underground or water flows down sinkholes.

Continuing along, we passed more splattermites and more crystal coatings.

Then we got to this area with more formations that superficially look like stalagmites. But look closer--they're different! They aren't coralloid-encrusted drip tubes either. Instead, these are raft cones, formed when water filled this pool and calcite rafts (like dainty lily pads) floated on the surface. A drip of water sank a raft, and over time, they built up into these cones. What a weird phenomenon!

Kirsten did such a good job explaining all sorts of things in the cave and answering questions.

She told us about these raft cones and then showed us the weird one, the tall one next to her, which plays two different sounds depending on where you tap on it. 

We continued through the cave, where the ceiling gets lower.

But occasionally we could stand again.

That's because there were a bunch more cupolas. Looking up them, we could see the bedrock, because the condensation corrosion had worn away the crystal coating. 

The crystals on the floor, continued, though.

They are so beautiful!

In the final room we took our last photos, saw an extinct horse's hoof (this cave is amazing for paleontology), saw a couple bats, and then it was time to go out the exit door.

This door was even shorter than the entrance door.

And then we were back to the outside desert world. The caves with all their decorations remind me that it wasn't always so dry on the surface. Probably many of the formations grew when it was much wetter outside.

We went back to the ranch to use the bathroom and saw these deer hanging out in the orchard next to the guest cabins.

Then it was on to Gandy Warm Springs...

...where Desert Girl waded in...

...and we enjoyed a picnic lunch.

We weren't finished with our adventures yet. Next up was Devil's Gate Slot Canyon.

There's really only one tricky part, the climb down into it. Then there's a very short section of the most beautiful canyon, where you can touch both walls.

And then it suddenly ends.
It was a great day with great people. If you ever have the chance to see Crystal Ball Cave, I highly recommend it!

Here are write-ups from a couple previous trips.

2009 Crystal Ball Cave trip

2015 Crystal Ball Cave trip

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