A Trip up Wheeler Peak, Great Basin National Park

Last week I had the opportunity to climb several mountains as part of the GLORIA project, a world-wide project that is looking at climate change by studying how plant species are changing on mountain tops over the long term. The basic idea is that as the climate warms, plants will have to move upward in elevation to survive. Eventually they will reach the top of the mountain, have no where else to go, and will disappear. Yikes!

One of the four peaks we studied was Wheeler Peak, at 13, 063 feet the second highest peak in the state of Nevada. The hike is 4.1 miles long starting from the Wheeler Peak summit trailhead at about 10,000 feet. To get to the trailhead, you simply enter Great Basin National Park via Nevada Highway 488, then take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive about 12 miles to the sign.

After a briefing about possible dangers (lightning, altitude sickness, hypothermia, tripping and falling, dehydration, etc.), we set off through the aspen groves on a rather flat section of trail.

After a mile, we reached the second trail junction, with Stella Lake nearby and the summit of Wheeler Peak only 3.1 miles away. Only. Ha.

The trail gets progressively steeper, and the peak still looks far away! Wheeler Peak is the high peak on the right, while Jeff Davis is on the left and stands about 400 feet lower. Wheeler Peak is named for Lieutenant George Wheeler, who summited and surveyed the peak in 1869 as part of an Army mapping expedition. For more on the history and climbing the peak, see the highly recommended  Great Basin National Park: A Guide to the Park and Surrounding Area. (Disclosure: I wrote it, so of course I highly recommend it!)

Before long we were above treeline and following switchbacks up the talus. Although we were gaining 3,000 feet, before the Scenic Drive existed, people would either ride horses up part way or start hiking about where the Upper Lehman Campground is, just short of 8,000 feet. And Wheeler started in Spring Valley at 6,000 feet, for a 7,000 foot elevation gain. (albeit with a horse for part of the way!).

More than half way up is a giant shoulder that is sort of flat. Some big wind breaks have been created. The wind sure can blow up here, and it's usually cold! Be sure to bring some extra layers.

During our rest break, I found one lonely little snow cinquefoil flower (Potentilla nivea). The rest of the flowers are wrinkled up and barely noticeable.

As we continued up, I commented on the flat areas with no vegetation. usually vegetation seems to like the flatter areas. I learned that these may be periglacial features. The movement of the ground due to freezing and thawing keeps it unsteady (or something like that, I'm not entirely clear about periglacial features).

A lot of planes fly over Wheeler Peak, and that particular day the contrails were staying put, giving an idea of just how many fly over in a short amount of time. Across the valley I saw my first ever contrail shadow.


A skunky-smell started permeating the air, and I looked around closely to find skunkweed or sky pilot (Polemonium viscosum). Beautiful purple flowers are suspended on some stinky upreaching leaves.

Then came a surprising sight: Parry's primrose (Primula parry). This species usually grows next to streams (the inlet to nearby Teresa Lake is a beautiful spot). Somehow, these flowers have been able to adapt to live in the alpine environment.

Although the oxygen became more limited the higher we went, the views kept improving. Soon we reached the summit and could look over the mountain top.

From the top we had the glorious view of the south Snake Range, beginning with the North Fork of Baker Creek, and continuing down to Pyramid Peak (it really does look like a pyramid!), Mt. Washington (the light gray peak), and Granite Mountain in the far distance.

Up on the summit are several round shelters. These just aren't for sheltering day hikers, they were used as part of a heliograph station to map the 39th parallel. They have a really interesting history (see Chapter 5 in the Great Basin book).

We began our vegetation resurveys on the west shoulder of Wheeler Peak, which has less disturbance. We used a variety of different survey types to document what vegetation is present. We also retrieved data loggers to find out what the temperature has been like for the past five years. Over the next months, that data will be studied to make some preliminary conclusions. Five years really isn't much time to see huge changes in plant communities, although we did see a couple of ferns that weren't spotted last time.

This rockslide yellow fleabane (Erigeron leiomerus) was outside of our survey area, but was one of the few plants still flowering. Due to our very dry conditions this year, most flowers were past their prime.

During a break, I walked to the far east edge of Wheeler Peak's summit to get a view of the rock glacier in the cirque below. Check out this post for a close-up view of the rock glacier.

I really wanted to see the glacier at the headwall, so I moved closer, and was stunned when I realized that the ice ascended nearly all the way up the steep face. It looks so much different than from down n the glacier. The slope is covered in dust, gravel, and rock, but it's smooth surface left no doubt that it's ice. I felt a moment of realization that this really could be a glacier. (I will admit that I've been a doubter, even though Osborn and Bevis have declared it a glacier in scientific literature.)

One of the definitions of a glacier is that it must be moving, and crevasses (cracks in the ice) show that the ice is moving. I zoomed in for a closer look at the crevasses. It would be kind of cool to get really close with an ice axe, rope, and crampons, and check them out more. The only problem is that there is so much rock fall off the Prospect Mountain Quartzite--hence the very dirty glacial ice.

Then it was time to get back to work looking at plants. The Ross' avens (Geum rossii) with its yellow flowers is one of the most common plants on all the peaks we looked at.

I only found a few cushion phlox (Phlox pulvinata) in bloom during the trip; most of the flowers had already disappeared.


We finished our work in the mid afternoon. Before heading down, I took a photo looking east, over Garrison in Snake Valley and the Burbank Hills to the Confusion/Wah Wah Range and beyond. If you know the area, can you spot Crystal Peak?

The afternoon heat allowed for a wildfire to the northeast of Spring Valley to produce an impressive smoke column. We also saw a lot of dust kicked up on Yelland Dry Lake bed. During the spring, the playa will be covered with water, but for most of the year it is dry and dusty. Many people fear that more of Spring Valley will become like Yelland Dry Lake bed due to a massive groundwater pumping project by Southern Nevada Water Authority that is expected to significantly drop the groundwater level in the valley and change the plant composition.

It took me about three hours to hike up Wheeler Peak (with people in our group both ahead and behind), and about two hours to hike down. It was a beautiful day to go up to the highest point in this part of the world.

Hope you enjoyed seeing some of the views! What's your favorite peak to hike?

Blossoms and Berries

 Our yard is bursting with colors and smells. It's obvious that it's summertime! The catalpa flowers (above) smell so good.

 My native flower garden has coneflowers just starting to bloom. The flax and Indian paintbrush are mostly done.

 The Palmer's penstemon is just gorgeous. It looks like such a complicated flower, with its inner parts and outer parts and different colors.

 The big winds we've had recently have knocked some of the apricots off the tree. We feel very lucky to have apricots--we've had a number of years with no or few apricots. This year should be a good crop, and I'm ready to make some jam.

 I have a few evening primroses in the garden. The garden is doing much better than last year, thanks to the drip irrigation system I installed. It's not pretty, but it (mostly) gets the job done. Now I just have to deal with trees that have gotten too big too fast and are shading the garden a little too much!

 We have a couple different kinds of currant in the yard, almost ripe. We have so many this year that maybe we'll even get a few instead of them all going to the birds!

And last but not least is the mulberry tree down at the end of the fence. I had totally forgotten about it, so now that I'm writing about it, I hope I will remember it! The berries remind me of finding them as a child. Yum!

What blossoms and berries do you have in your yard?

Come to the Color

So many flowers are blooming right now. I feel like I'm seeing old friends as I recognize them. Some flowers are new to me, and they become new friends. I'm a bit behind in identifying some, but I do try to take lots of photos so I can eventually learn their names.

As I was driving to work this week, I spotted cactus blooms from Plains Pricklypear Cactus (Opuntia polyacantha). Flowering cacti have a special place in my love for flowers. The contrast between the prickly, mean cactus pads and the beautiful, delicate blossoms is something I will never be able to fully comprehend. But I can enjoy them, so I braked and went over for a closer look.

  I quickly saw that I wasn't the only one attracted to the colorful flowers. Bumblebees buzzed from one flower to another, and upon closer inspection, I could even see the pollen sticking to the bees hairs.


Flies and beetles wandered around the petals. National Pollinator Week is June 17-23, but I'm already appreciating our wonderful pollinators! I've planted native flowers in my yard to try and encourage even more pollinators to come visit.

 I was surprised to see this little spider hiding out in the cactus flower. What was it doing? Eating some of the insects that were attracted to the flower? Maybe visiting beautiful flowers isn't quite as peaceful as we think!

 I've been developing a better appreciation for spiders as I get ready for the Great Basin National Park Arachnid BioBlitz, to be held July 8-10. If you want to learn more about spiders and other arachnids, this is an event you won't want to miss!

I've got to go--so many wildflowers to go and visit this weekend!

Marmots and More

 After we finished our delightful hike up Pole Canyon, I decided to drive up to the top of the Baker Creek road in Great Basin National Park and see what other flowers were blooming. I found the hillside dotted with yellow from Arrowleaf Balsamroot (Balsamorhiza saggita), a very bright and cheerful flower.

 A much smaller yellow flower was plantainleaf buttercup, also called meadow buttercup and water-plantain buttercup (Ranunculus alismifolius). 

I had expected to see more flowers, but apparently it needs to warm up a bit more.

As I started to drive down the road, I saw a large rodent appear:

 A marmot! These large ground squirrels like the road base and burrow under the road and under the boulders next to the road to live. They appear every spring (and sometimes later winter--I heard reports of marmot sightings on the Baker Creek road in February). They love to eat greens, lounge around, and eat some more, maybe flowers or seeds this time. They have a good reason to eat--they are the longest hibernating animal in North America, snoozing away eight months of the year! They need to pack on the pounds before they go into their burrows and lose up to half their weight.

 This yellow-bellied marmot looked a little like a harbor seal to me! He (or she) might live up to 15 years.

 This youngster didn't know what to make of me. Marmots are quite fascinating, and because you can get relatively close to them (in contrast to, say, a mountain lion), they make for great wildlife watching. To learn more about marmots, click here.

Marmots don't rank real high for intelligence or speed, so it's up to humans not to run them over.
I'm guessing there aren't too many signs like this out in the world!

Desert Destination: Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park

On our last morning in Death Valley, we headed to the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes near Stovepipe Wells. The kids were ultra-excited, as playing in sand sounded like a really fun thing to do. We decided that our goal was just to get out on the sand. We didn't care how far we went. We purposely chose the morning so the sand and air would be cooler.

 On the way to the sand dunes, I couldn't help but admire the flowering creosote bushes, one of the trademark plants of the Mojave Desert.

 Some of the blooms were already turning to seed.


The kids quickly got out the digging tools (and a net, which they used as a sieve), and got to work. I'm not sure what they were making. I wandered around the nearby knolls examining the sand.

 I saw so many tracks, mainly insects, some lizards, some birds. Quite a few burrow holes were nestled near the roots of the creosote bushes. In some places the wind had uncovered the roots of the creosote, causing it to die. In other places the sand was slowly covering the creosote bushes. These are clearly active dunes.

For sand dunes to form, three things must be present: a source of sand (from the Cottonwood Mountains), prevailing winds (from the southwest), and a place for the sand to collect (often a place with mountains behind it that cause the air to lift and the sand to drop out of it).

 The sand dunes at Mesquite Flat cover a huge area, and soon Desert Boy decided he was done digging and wanted to get up to one of the taller dunes. The dunes here aren't super tall, about 130 feet max, but that is still tall in our book!

 So we headed that direction, stopping to play from time to time. Desert Girl liked having her feet buried.

 As we came across one dune, we found a whole tour bus filming something. It was such a surprise to see so many people so far out in the dunes!

These dunes have been popular in movies due to their easy access. Probably the most famous movie filed here is Star Wars.

 We eventually made it to the top of a tall dune (although not the tallest, we agreed that a tall one closer to us would be sufficient).

 Desert Boy was the first up, but he went back down to help his sister. Aw, how sweet!

 Climbing in sand is a bit of a workout, especially in the steeper sections!

 Almost up, even though it now requires crawling!

 Desert Girl poses with me.

Some other kids and their dad came up on the dune with us, and Desert Boy made friends with them and wanted to spend the whole day with them. He's good at making friends like that. He was so sad when they went their own way. We still had good times ahead, though, like running down he sand dunes.

We had so much fun at the dunes that it made me realize we need to go check out more sand dunes. Many people think of sand dunes when they hear the word desert, but sand dunes make up less than 1% of the Mojave and Great Basin deserts. Nevertheless, several are spread across the area (five sand dune fields in Death Valley alone), making for some interesting biological observations and a great deal of fun!