Baker Lake and Dead Lake, Great Basin National Park

My longest run to train for the Tushars Marathon took place three weeks before the marathon and was due to be a 20-22-mile long run. I wanted to be as high elevation as possible, but faced a lot of snow at upper elevations. Where could I go? I decided to start out on the Baker Lake trail, a bit over 5 miles long.

The lower elevations (about 8,000 to 9,000 feet) were totally snow-free, with pretty flowers blooming.

The trail was wet, with many stream crossings.

Baker Creek itself was quite impressive. I liked all the cascades.

I made a little detour to the third snow survey site . When I had been there the end of March, we had measured the snow at over six feet deep. This snow marker sign had not seemed so tall! I stood next to it and was about a foot shorter than the joint.

I continued higher and started running into snow.

And more snow! Beyond mile 4, it was pretty much all snow, but of varying heights. I did more hiking than running at this point. 

And finally I was there! The lake was still mostly frozen over. It was quite impressive.

 And that's when my phone died, without warning, I think because it was so cold. I had an external battery so plugged it in and wandered around a bit, wanting to get a few more photos.

I also ate some snacks and rehydrated. I am trying not to eat much sugar, so I haven't been doing any gels, so each run I've been trying different solid foods to see how my stomach handles them. So far, everything has been good. Trail mix is a big favorite. My phone got enough power to take a few more photos, then it was time to move on. I had several possibilities: 1. Do the Baker-Johnson Lake loop. This is a terrific loop, about 13-miles long. But with all the snow, it was too dangerous, especially descending from the ridge to Johnson Lake, a very steep section and one that I could see was entirely snow-covered. 2. Go up to the ridge above Johnson Lake, then continue along the ridge to the Snake Divide Ridge trail through the bristlecones. I did this last fall, and it was a gorgeous run. But it seemed very snowy, and since I was already on an external battery for my phone, I didn't want to be there without decent communications. 3. Go back down the Baker Lake trail and hook up with other trails.

 I chose #3. It might not be the most adventurous, but it would probably provide the best running surfaces, and that was what I was after. Plus, it would be safer to stick to marked trails. So I ran down to the junction with the South Fork Baker trail, took that past some tents (!), and to the beautiful meadow.

The last time I had seen the trail junction sign, it had been surrounded by snow! Now the snow was gone and it was good running uphill to the next big beautiful meadow.

Then I continued up to the ridge between Baker Creek and Snake Creek, where I found this sign : Snake Creek Divide (not to be confused with the Snake Creek Divide between Snake Creek and North Fork Big Wash), Elevation 9,871 feet. Johnson Lake 2.0 miles. Soon after I came across a group of backpackers who had gone up to Johnson Lake, and they warned that the snow was really deep past the Johnson Mill Site.

 The views from this connector trail, called the Shoshone Trail, are terrific. Here's looking southeast into the Snake drainage.

I met up with the Johnson Lake trail and headed uphill until I got to this trail junction to Dead Lake, 0.6 miles ahead. This is a new trail, and I wanted to check out Dead Lake.

I knew Dead Lake would be more than the puddle it is most of the time, but I wasn't prepared for just how much water would be there!

The trail skirts one edge, but I decided to walk around the lake so I could see it from all angles.

I could have swam in it! (I considered that.)

It was a super fun sight.

I couldn't resist a selfie!

Then it was back running to the Johnson Lake trail and the Shoshone trail. Along the way I saw this flower I had missed previously. I still don't know what it is!

Here's the view coming back into the big meadow and to the South Fork Baker-Timber Creek junction. I took a right and headed over into Timber Creek. There was just one big snow drift at the top of Timber Creek.

Then it was pretty quick heading down the trail.

And finally across Baker Creek and back to the vehicle!

I don't know the exact mileage, as my Garmin watch ran out of battery, my phone ran out of battery, and I had to just run without electronics! (A good thing to do!) It was a very pleasant run, and I was glad to have an excuse to get out on the trails. I certainly have a different view of trail mileage after all these trail runs, it's a wee bit faster than the many hikes I've done with kids over the past 10 years!

Ascent of Wheeler Peak in July 2019

 I wanted to get some more high elevation acclimatization to prepare for my mountain marathon. And I just wanted to climb Wheeler Peak, the second tallest peak in Nevada and the capstone of Great Basin National Park in eastern Nevada.

I've climbed the peak many times before (for example, 2008 in July,  2013 in August for GLORIA, June 1, 2014, with kids in June 2015, February 2016 Part 1 and Part 2, and with kids in June 2017). Generally July is a good time to go to see lots of wildflowers. But in 2019, a year of high snow pack and a cool and wet spring, the road up to the Wheeler Peak summit trailhead only opened the end of June. I wasn't sure what conditions I would encounter.

It wasn't far above Stella Lake that I started getting into some big snow banks. Fortunately the Nevada Conservation Corps (NCC) crew had been up there and flagged the trail up through the treeline, which helped a lot! I was trying to run hill intervals, but it wasn't working so great through the snow. Fortunately the snow eventually stopped.

And then there were flowers! All sorts of flowers, like this bright sky pilot (Polemonium viscosum), which later starts smelling like skunk.

I did a little happy dance when I saw this spiky phlox (Phlox pulvinata). I'm used to seeing it when it's past its prime, so it was so neat to see it in bloom!

I was up to the ridge with the big windbreaks. This ridge is kind of flat. Keeping in mind that you're climbing 3,000 feet in 4.1 miles. I took a quick break, but since I was trying to make this a fast trip up the peak, didn't stop for long.

This sight stopped me in my tracks--moss campion (Silene acaulis), a beautiful patch of it with Wheeler in the background.

To the west was Spring Valley, with the green pivot-irrigated fields really standing out. The horizon was not very clear, I think because of smoke.

I also enjoyed big patches of yellow Ross' aven (Geum rossi).

 

 The trail was blocked by snow in a couple more places as I climbed higher. This part was a few hundred feet below the summit. Obviously no one had tried to stay on the trail, as it was too steep. So I headed up the rocks, trying not to trample the delicate alpine plants.

And then I was there! I walked out onto some snow, postholing up to my thigh. Yikes! Then it was time to get some selfies. Here's the rest of the South Snake Range stretching to the south. The North Fork Baker sure has a lot of snow left in it!

I checked the trail register, and it was stuffed full of molding papers. I sorted through some of them and found two nice notebooks that I left in a ziploc bag.

I took the older registers to the Cultural Resources manager for the park.

 

Then I grabbed a snack and headed out along the summit ridge, glad to have hiking poles to help with the deep snow.

I also had to put on two jackets, a balaclava, and gloves. It might be 95 degrees in the valley, but it was feeling like winter up on top! Here's a view looking west towards the summit.

And looking east to the newly renamed Doso Doyabi (formerly Jeff Davis Peak). Here's info on the name change and the approval on June 19, 2019.

 

On my way back, I saw lots of green bugs (Hemiptera) on the snow. I was able to use iNaturalist to look up what it was, Say's stink bug.

I couldn't help but take a lot of photos while I was up there. Here's looking north, with Stella and Teresa Lakes if you look hard. Bald Mountain is the nearest peak.

As I was heading off the mountain, I went to the west side and looked back at the peak. Wow, what a snow cornice! And I had been standing on it! If you head up there, be careful.

On my way down, I found this bright flower (maybe a Draba?) way above the other flowers. The bright pink Parry's primrose (Primula parryi) still has a ways to go until it's blooming.

Views of heading down. 

 And then looking back up from the mid-way ridge. (It's about mid-way in time for going up, but for distance it's over half way.)

I kept going crazy over the amazing wildflowers. Here they were, hiding out above the snow level!

And a few more flowers, just because. I didn't manage to get a photo of the people in flip flops coming up the mountain. Fifteen people were heading up as I was coming down, many dressed in shorts and t-shirts. Hopefully they had some extra layers in their packs, as the wind was getting stronger. 

If you want to hike Wheeler Peak now, I recommend sturdy boots you don't mind getting wet, hiking poles (especially helpful for coming down the snowy parts), and several layers. Bring more water than you think you'll need, and plenty of snacks. A good hiker without many stops can make it to the top in 3-4 hours, and back down in 2-3 hours. We did it with kids one year, and it was 9 hours round trip with lots of snack breaks. On this day, it was much faster because I jogged some of it, and even with flower and photo stops, it was about 4.5 hours. Overall, about 20% of the trail is covered with snow, although with more warm days ahead, I'd expect the trail to be snow free in a couple weeks.

Thanks for looking!

Terrific Trails at Cave Lake State Park

For Week 11 of my 16-week trail marathon training plan, I was supposed to do a 17-mile long run. I wanted a change of scenery, so I headed to Cave Lake State Park near Ely, Nevada. I hadn't really spent much time on the trails there, but it looked like a good trail system, and if I ran most of the trails, I could get in my mileage. (Trail running has really changed my perspective on trail miles!)

We parked at Cave Lake, then I took off on the Cave Springs Loop. I had never been on this pleasant five-mile loop.

The trail was nice, although in a few places there were eye-level sharp branches and the trail needs a little maintenance here and there. The flowers were great, and I saw some that were a little different than in Great Basin National Park, such as a different species of paintbrush and buckwheat.

This penstemon also looked different.

There was no one else on the trail, and I loved running towards the hills!

I ran the trail in a clockwise direction, which was good, because the trail popped out on pavement at this Area Closed sign, with no trail marker sign. If you read the sign carefully, it's area closed to motorized vehicles, but it's not obvious that this is the Cave Springs Loop.

Then it was back to the vehicle on the gravel and paved road. I passed this big limestone outcrop, with a small cave at the base. It actually goes far enough back to have a dark zone!

After a quick stop at the vehicle (my impromptu aid station!), I started on the Steptoe Creek Trail. This trail parallels the road that comes into Cave Lake.

It's a nice, rolling trail, also in need of some maintenance in overgrown sections.

Next up was the Twisted Pines Trail. I was floored by the abundance of wildflowers. They were everywhere, and all colors!

This trail looked more used, and I saw some mountain bike tracks on it. I'd like to go back out with my mountain bike!

The trail gained elevation and before too long I was near Square Top.

I got to a trail junction and took the longer route of the High Roller trail.

True to its name, the trail rolled up and down along the high country. It was beautiful.

It also passed through some amazing wildflower sections.

I was getting tired at this point, but I was also distracted by the great views.

Don't you want to jump up and start running this trail?!

The lupine was in full bloom.

Then the trail turned and I saw Cave Lake in the distance. It looked so small!

The color sure is a contrast with the surrounding pinyon/juniper woodland.

I couldn't help but notice this limestone outcropping and wondered about its cave potential.

This twisted juniper caught my eye. It was about here that I realized I needed to go the opposite direction on the Cave Lake Overlook Trail, so I turned around and headed back uphill.

Then it was time for a very happy sight--the kids and puppy! They were my next aid station, bringing me water and food. Thank you, kids! I had a longer break with them. They were good cheerleaders, urging me to finish strong.

The lake got bigger as I descended.

I kept pausing to check out the wildflowers!

It turned out the route was just shy of the 17 miles, so I ran through the campground (full!) and along the road a little bit extra to get the miles. Overall, the trails at Cave Lake are fantastic, and definitely underused. Besides the kids, I only saw two other people on the trails. There are lots of people fishing and kayaking, and we'd love to go back to enjoy those pursuits.

 

And here's what the route ended up looking like!  It was 4,491 feet elevation gain, total over 17 miles. The race will be 26.2 miles and 7,310 feet elevation gain, so I'm on my way.